All for a Few Perfect Waves

All for a Few Perfect Waves
Author :
Publisher : Yellow Jersey Press
Total Pages : 496
Release :
ISBN-10 : 1787290034
ISBN-13 : 9781787290037
Rating : 4/5 (037 Downloads)

Book Synopsis All for a Few Perfect Waves by : DAVID. RENSIN

Download or read book All for a Few Perfect Waves written by DAVID. RENSIN and published by Yellow Jersey Press. This book was released on 2017-06-29 with total page 496 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: There will never be another surfer like Miki 'Da Cat' Dora. For twenty years the dashing and enigmatic dark prince of California surfing dominated the Malibu waves and his peers' imaginations, blazing a trail that would inspire generations to come. But when the sport exploded into the mainstream and surfing changed for ever, Dora's paradise was lost. Outraged at gridlocked swells and a scene that had grown ever more commodified, Dora eventually fled Malibu, seeking empty waves - and anonymity - beyond America. He'd also run afoul of the law, and he led the authorities on a seven-year chase around the globe. Yet, Dora would never give up searching for the spirit of the Malibu he'd lost. Wherever he made his home - New Zealand, South Africa, France - he personified the rebel heart of surfing and became a legend in his own time. This brilliant biography, based on interviews with more than three hundred people who knew Dora, finally uncovers the truth about surfing's most seductive and complicated icon.


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**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve